In a sign of how B.C.’s craft beer scene has been maturing, the end of 2012 saw the silver anniversary release of one of its stalwart beers.
Twenty-five years for a brand may not be that long in the scheme of things. Granville Island’s lager is one year away from its 30th birthday. Molson Canadian dates back to 1959.
But let’s just be clear: Hermannator is a fricking EISBOCK. This is lager taken to its most extreme with dark malts, freeze concentration and three months of aging, resulting in a brew not far shy of 10% ABV. Not exactly the most accessible style.
In 1987, when a Vancouver Island Brewery brewer by the name of Hermann (like all good mythical figures, his name seems to have been lost in the mists of time) first brewed up this still-rare style, any dark beer must have been viewed as a sign of the end times in booze-backward B.C.
So the fact that Hermannator has been brewed every year for 25 years is testament to its deliciousness. Could also be due to the fact that it’s still probably the best beer deal in this province and was perhaps seen as a discerning substitute for malt liquor back in the day ($13 or $14 for six bottles of 9.5% beer? Yesh pleash!)
Since those early days, Hermannator has proved its worth on the national and international stage, winning multiple awards over the years – though in my view, it has really proved its legendary status by both predating and outlasting the incredible career of the other legendary Hermannator. (Bonus for sports sadists: one of the most spectacular crashes in skiing history 1:20 in.)
Hermannator has also become one of the best and easiest-to-cellar beers for those wanting to try out aging beer – again, that price point and those small bottles help. (Curious about cellaring beer? Barley Mowat is your man.) Hermannator was the first beer I squirreled away, and now I’m bearing the fruit (generally lots of dark, boozy fruit flavours, actually) with the opportunity to do a vertical tasting of aged beers.
So, six wine glasses, three each for the Good Lady Wife and I to sample a 2012, 2011 and 2010 Hermannator side by side. Beer Cat hovering in the wings.
Visually, they’re nigh identical. All the same deep brown with cola-caramel highlights, with the same froth of tan head that settles quickly to a steady rim.
But from there, the similarities end.
Hermannator 2012
Carbonation is fairly strong, and I found that more flavour came through as the beer settles with time.
Smoooooth aroma. On the nose are rich steeped fruits, even a little cherry, some polished mahogany with a concentrated nut-chocolate base, echoes of ground coffee and a port-like alcohol notes.
Smoothness continues in the mouth, with the beer becoming silky and supple after the carbonation settles.
Bitter-roasted malt undertones of dark chocolate and treacle meld with an espresso-like bitterness, while there are highlights of steeped fruits including plums, figs and raisins. Bitterness hits in quite quickly at sides of the mouth before closing in, then merges with alcohol to create a growing impact of body at the end of each sip, leaving behind a warming memory and gentle aftertaste of slightly bitter dried fruits and some tobacco.
Did I mention how awesome Hermannator is?
Hermannator 2011 (aged one year)
The aroma for this one is sublime. Huge notes of steeped red fruit – plum and fig come to mind – with a sweet but smooth molasses-like base, licorice and dark cherry. A big change from last year, when the aroma was dominated by rich caramel, with some chocolate and breadiness, and fruit was nowhere to be sniffed.
Carbonation has mellowed over a year of aging, resulting in a more refined, rounded and even slightly creamy mouthfeel.
Flavourwise, the roast has increased, with elements of tobacco and some complex caramel and fudge tones. However, there’s a distinct loss of body in the middle, and the notes of chocolate, oak, toast, raisin and prunes are largely absent. The body returns slightly toward a distinctly drier finish, where a leatheriness comes through. Sadly, as the carbonation fades, the beer becomes even thinner.
Bit of a disappointment.
Hermannator 2010 (aged two years)
This more than makes up for it.
We’re back to massive caramel on the nose, which is incredibly deep. It’s much less fruity than it was last year, despite figs and prunes making an appearance. There’s more complex oak and a distinct creaminess.
Thankfully, the flavour lives up to the aroma this time. What’s most noteworthy at first is how smooth and lusciously creamy the 2010 has become. The fruit has mellowed into powerful malt flavours, which are reined in by the incredible mouthfeel to create a sumptuous bitter roastiness, and delicious notes of coffee, dark chocolate, toffee and some vanilla.
The balance of this beer is superb. The bitterness moves into tongue, building to an incredible richness and leaving cappucino flavours in the aftertaste.
The 2010 seemed wild and even a little harsh a year after its release – but after another year, all of that has mellowed into a beautiful beer that, curiously, echoes its original release, albeit incredibly more complex.
Don’t get me wrong, Hermannator is wonderful fresh – but I get the feeling this 2010 is the beer it’s supposed to be.
It’s extraordinary how strong, malty beers can change over time, and cellaring beer is a fascinating experiment to try out at home.
If some of your favourite beers are boozy (at least 7-8%) and malt forward (imperial stouts, strong Scotch ales, bocks, etc.) then it’s definitely worth laying some down in a consistently cool and dark place. You’ll be amazed at the changes a year or two or five down the line.
For more tasting notes on Hermannator, see the Brewed Awakening review.
To mark Hermannator’s silver anniversary, a limited run of 650ml bomber bottles was also released, wax dipped to prevent any oxygen creeping in. Good luck finding any of those.
